Sense of Beauty

 
Cosmetics

An unusual trio

The path to spectacular results lies in research and testing. Weeks of analysis allowed us to discover a combination of three active ingredients that works wonders for the skin. These ingredients are united under one name: Authority.

Text: Karolina Lendzion, PhD, scientific expert at Dr Irena Eris
In vitro studies focused on naringin (Trihydro Activator), gold peptide and micromolecular collagen – a peptide with a sequence identical to that found in human skin collagen. What do we know about these active ingredients?

The first one
The molecule known as Trihydro Activator is the subject of a patent held by Dr Irena Eris and the Nencki Institute of Experimental Biology of the Polish Academy of Sciences. It activates potassium channels in the inner mitochondrial membrane. Recent publications also point to its soothing1 and neuroprotective2 properties.

The second
Gold peptide, on the other hand, is a collagen peptide conjugated with gold particles. It has anti-wrinkle properties, stimulating fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, the two main structures responsible for skin firmness and tone. This keeps the skin taut and firm for much longer. The combination of gold and peptide also allows for the most effective use of the best properties of both ingredients, such as: peptide selectivity and activity, peptide stability and bioavailability, as well as a focus on high peptide concentration.

The third
There is also micromolecular collagen, which is biotechnologically developed micro-molecular collagen with a structure identical to that of human collagen. It was developed using advanced AI tools and obtained through a precise fermentation technique. This ingredient represents a new class of active substances – not derived from animal or plant sources, yet fully compatible with the biology of human skin. It has unique structural characteristics – it is composed of less than 100 amino acids, which allows it to penetrate the skin more effectively. Furthermore, by acting in multiple ways, it influences three key stages of the collagen cycle. These include: stimulation of collagen synthesis, strengthening of the collagen network and protection against degradation.

1
Cai J, et al., Naringenin: A flavanone with anti-inflammatory and anti-infective properties, "Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy", 2023;164:114990.
2
Atoki AV et al. Naringenin: its chemistry and roles in neuroprotection, "Nutritional Neuroscience", 2024;27(6):637-666.
Results of application research3

DR IRENA ERIS AUTHORITY INSTANT LUMINOUS LIFTING DAY CREAM SPF 20
  • Gradual brightening and smoothing of the skin structure (progressive reduction in the amount of melanin in the skin and roughness of the epidermis after 4, 8 and 12 weeks).
  • Reduced visibility of wrinkles.

DR IRENA ERIS AUTHORITY SUPREME AGE DELAYING NIGHT CREAM
  • 30% improvement in skin elasticity after 8 weeks (the effect lasted for another 4 weeks).

DR IRENA ERIS AUTHORITY LIFTING EYE SERUM
DAY/NIGHT
  • Reduction in melanin levels by as much as 26%.
  • Impressive brightening of the skin around the eyes.
  • Half of the subjects observed a reduction not only in the number of wrinkles, but also in their depth by as much as 18%.

DR IRENA ERIS AUTHORITY BEAUTY FLASH MASK
  • Immediate skin tightening effect – 41% reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and 45% improvement in skin texture. The result was even more impressive because after 3 weeks of use, the reduction in wrinkles was still visible (-40% in 73% of subjects).
The research focused on naringin, gold peptide and micromolecular collagen.
Focus on
Research conducted at the Dr Irena Eris Centre for Science and Research focused on combining these three substances and demonstrating their synergistic effect in skin cell regeneration. Effect? Spectacular acceleration of damaged cell monolayer regeneration – after just 6 hours, the complex significantly stimulated cell proliferation and migration to the site of damage. It’s time for the next step.

Potential for cooperation
In the next stage, the effect of the tested substances on type I collagen synthesis in cells under in vitro conditions was assessed. This collagen is present in the skin in the largest amounts (it accounts for approx. 90% of all collagen in our body). It is responsible for its strength and elasticity. With age, its reserves gradually diminish, causing the skin to become flaccid, thin and dehydrated. In our research, we observed a synergistic effect of increased collagen concentration in dermal cells (fibroblasts) after 48 hours of stimulation with the complex (+31%). Furthermore, we also conducted such tests on ready-made cosmetic creams for day, night and under-eye use – all from the Authority series (results shown in the chart below).

3
Extensive 12-week studies for day and night creams, as well as a 4-week test of eye cream and a 3-week test of the face mask.
Increase in the amount of type I collagen in cosmetics of the Authority series
Available at sklep.drirenaeris.com, Dr Irena Eris Skin Care Institues, and in Douglas and Sephora stores.

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