Interviewer: Iwona Wójcik
You have 30 years of journalistic experience. Which of the skills you gained during that time are most useful to you in carrying out your daily duties at Comité Colbert?
I did indeed spend more than thirty years in journalism, including 25 years observing this sector, understanding its restructurings, following its international expansion, and analyzing the challenges it faced. That made me an expert even before taking on the leadership of Comité Colbert – I already knew all the key players.
“To passionately promote, to sustainably develop and to patiently transmit French savoir-faire and creation in order to infuse a new sense of wonder". What does the savoir-faire mentioned in your mission statement mean?
The protection of
savoir-faire has been at the heart of our association’s mission since its creation in 1954, because it is the foundation of the entire industry. The idea of the founder, Jean-Jacques Guerlain, was to unite all the players of French luxury – regardless of their sector – so that they could collectively safeguard the spirit of French luxury and
art de vivre: something fragile, something that we have to care for as a shared heritage, to be cherished and passed on.
The history of Comité Colbert begins after World War II. Its founders, Jean-Jacques Guerlain and Lucien Lelong, chose Jean-Baptiste Colbert as the patron of the association – initially a small committee bringing together 15 French luxury companies. He was primarily the finance minister to Louis XIV, but he also established numerous royal manufactories. Which of Colbert’s ideas do you still consider relevant today?
Seventy years later, even though the
maisons [houses of fashion and luxury – editor's note] have become global leaders, they still uphold this conviction: the greater interest in promoting and preserving this shared heritage outweighs their individual interests. Jean-Baptiste Colbert had a simple but brilliant idea for strengthening the kingdom’s economy: to specialize France in products of the highest quality and attract the best of the very best artisans. He therefore opened royal manufactories dedicated to tapestries, furniture, mirrors, textile, and silk. But he also went further. Convinced that a strong economy requires a strong culture, he founded academies of fine arts, painting and sculpture, architecture, music, and the sciences. And he offered his king a
château – Versailles – a marvel of architecture, the most beautiful showcase of French decorative arts, and a remarkable instrument of cultural diplomacy. All of this is his legacy.
What were the main tasks of Comité Colbert after World War II?
The first goal was to attract artisans to replace those who disappeared during the war. The second one was to reopen foreign markets. But above all, the main objective was to create a collective in which ideas and experiences could be shared.
Comité Colbert contributed to the adoption of the Longuet Law in France in 1994, which aimed to put an end to counterfeiting goods. How do you try to prevent this practice today?
The Longuet Law of 1994 was the first major anti-counterfeiting law applied to luxury goods. It strengthened the sanctions against copying and – in a revolutionary step – recognized that protecting luxury also means protecting its origins and the know-how on which it is built. Today, the challenge is far greater, as counter- feiting and “dupes” have become global phenomena, amplified by social networks and by recent American taxes on small parcels, which have helped redirect criminal networks towards Europe. We must therefore work to reinforce IP protection and sanctions, but also educate the public – for many customers, purchasing counterfeits and “dupes” has come to seem clever rather than criminal.