Sense of Beauty

 
Dr Irena Eris World

Life project

”We have our own laboratory, we conduct research, we are faithful to our beliefs. We do not copy trends, we often get ahead of them. And above all, we have a relationship with our clients, built up over the years”. We talk with the founder of the Dr Irena Eris brand about the competitive advantages it holds in the market.

Interviewer: Joanna Łodygowska
Necessity is the mother of invention, and, one could add, of business. You began developing cosmetic formulas because you wanted to solve skin problems – your own and a colleague’s. Do you remember the ingredients of your first original cream?
I remember it perfectly. My first formulas truly came from necessity – both literally and figuratively. As a young person, I had very sensitive skin, prone to allergies and acne. I visited dermatologists and beauticians, but with minimal results. That is why, while still a student, I began preparing my own ointments and creams, first for myself, then for my friends. One of them was an avid surfer who had cracked skin on his hands. Dermatologists could not help him. I prepared a simple formula with a high dose of vitamin A – 5,000 units. And suddenly, it worked. I remember when he came to me and shouted, “Irena! You are a genius!”. That moment was a breakthrough. It made me realise that the knowledge I had gained could have real, practical applications and bring relief to people. It gave me the impulse to act.

So, can we say that the increased use of vitamin A in creams is thanks to you?
One could say that I was among the pioneers who dared to think of vitamin A not only as a pharmaceutical ingredient, but also as a cosmetic one. Already in the 1980s, I was experimenting with its derivatives, noticing their effects. I believed that scientific knowledge should not be confined to laboratories, but should serve people. And if something works in dermatology, then – in the proper form and dosage, with appropriate stabilisation – it can also work in everyday skincare. That is how our first cosmetics with vitamin A were created.

Many global brands, such as those in Silicon Valley, started in symbolic garages – often without funding, but with ideas and faith in their mission. Your beginnings also had something of that raw entrepreneurship: materials were lacking, you had to arrange everything on your own. What other unconventional solutions did you have to come up with to launch production and take your first steps in business? 
It was a time full of absurdity, but also of immense creativity. In the beginning, a mechanic friend from Polfa built a machine for mixing creams for me. I also wanted to have my own jars. We commissioned the production of an injection mould. Unfortunately, it turned out to have a technical defect, it could not be used, and we were left without packaging. However, I always had a bit of luck – this time I found a manufacturer who already had jars ready. All of this infrastructure was created out of necessity, and at the same time out of the belief that quality is the most important thing. Interestingly, it was precisely this authenticity, combined with effective action, that gained the trust of our first clients.
When I started, everything seemed to be a huge challenge – difficulties in obtaining raw materials, lack of capital,
and no business experience. Today, I know that it was worth consistently following my own path.
"I wanted to make very good creams in beautiful packaging…" – at the very beginning, did you draw inspiration from somewhere? Was there a brand that represented the level of quality you wanted to achieve?
I admired French brands. There is no denying – they had long known how to combine elegance, quality, and the philosophy of beauty. But I did not want to imitate them. My goal was to build something authentic, based on science. I wanted to create creams that would be effective and that a woman would place on her shelf with pleasure. Beautiful packaging was just as important to me as the formula itself. Not because it had to shine, but because of my belief that every woman deserves something that is both aesthetic and valuable. Even if, economically, it did not make sense at the time.

From the very beginning, the laboratory was the heart of the company. What were the first steps toward creating the brand’s Centre for Science and Research, and what were the milestones in its growth?
The laboratory was always my natural environment – I felt like myself there. From the start, I knew that if we wanted to create cosmetics that not only smell and look beautiful but truly work, we needed our own research base. The first steps were small, but over the years, we built something exceptional. A true,
globally unique Centre for Science and Research was created. It conducts academic-level research that is published, cited, and peer-reviewed. We create 3D skin models, study the mechanisms of active ingredients at the cellular level, and cooperate with universities and scientific institutes. That is our pride – the heart of our operations. All of this is reflected in our cosmetics.

Today, when we talk about work-life balance, it sounds like a trendy slogan. Meanwhile, you introduced this concept before it became a topic of conferences and podcasts. What inspired this approach, so different from the dominant work culture at the time?
Perhaps it was because both my husband and I worked very intensively. We knew how easy it is to burn out, lose oneself, and damage one’s health. And I, as a woman, mother, and an entrepreneur, felt a unique burden. I then understood how important it is to let go, to rest, and to embrace silence. That is why our SPA Hotels were not created as an investment in tourism, but as an extension of the philosophy that caring for oneself is not a luxury, but a necessity.
I dream that the company we have built will remain true to its values. That in a world which is changing, becoming increasingly technical, with somewhat shallowing relationships, the Dr Irena Eris brand will continue to be a synonym for genuine beauty, science, and trust.
This philosophy of holistic self-care, which has now become a global trend, especially in the context of mental health and taking time to rest, you have been promoting almost since the very beginning of your company. Are these values still just as important to you today?
They become even more important with age. Taking care of oneself is not just about skin care. It is a lifestyle, a conscious management of energy, emotions, and relationships. In a world that rushes and lives online, we need to pause, to be mindful, and to connect with ourselves. Our philosophy has always assumed that beauty is not just external appearance. It is a state of inner harmony, the ability to let go of insecurities. And I am glad that today this way of thinking has become a global trend. We were simply ready for it earlier.

What advantages are essential when competing on a market with much larger companies?
Innovation and flexibility. We have our own laboratory, we conduct research, we are faithful to our beliefs. We do not copy trends, we often get ahead of them. And above all, we have a relationship with our clients, built up over the years. That is our greatest advantage. Women know that they can rely on us. And that our growth does not mean becoming bigger, but becoming better.

Which of the innovations you introduced do you consider the most groundbreaking?
We were the first in the world to use folic acid in cosmetics. That was a breakthrough. We discovered that it penetrates the nuclei of skin cells and repairs DNA damage. When we presented the results of that research at a scientific congress, the participants were deeply impressed. We were also the first in Europe to produce cosmetics with vitamin K for couperose-prone skin and for subcutaneous bruises. The introduction of a cosmetic line that protects telomeres coincided with the awarding of the Nobel Prize for the telomere ageing theory. We are constantly evolving. We study the synergy of different compounds and create unique complexes of active substances that have beneficial effects on the skin. We develop new technologies for producing cosmetics. We conduct research on carriers that penetrate deep into the layers of the skin and are able to deliver active substances directly to the cell nuclei.

Your collaboration with universities and research institutions is also considered innovative. Was it all done in pursuit of a Nobel Prize?
I never planned for a Nobel Prize. [laughs] But indeed, cooperation with scientific institutions has always been something natural for me. I am a scientist myself, and I still have great respect for reliable research, expert discussions, and teamwork. We use our discoveries to create new products, participate in international congresses, and publish the results of our research in prestigious scientific journals on the Philadelphia list. We collaborate with renowned institutions, including the Nencki Institute at the Polish Academy of Sciences. Thanks to research, we are able to introduce products to the market that not only meet consumer needs but often anticipate trends in the cosmetics industry. Our discoveries result in patent applications and prestigious awards. Today, we hold 12 patents and have several more applications pending registration. We are creating a global avant-garde of cosmetology.
Our discoveries result in patent applications and prestigious awards. We hold 12 patents and have several more patent applications. We are creating a global avant-garde of cosmetology.
How can one ensure that work remains satisfying for so many years?
By not thinking of it only as work, but as a mission, a journey, a life project. Of course, there are moments of fatigue, frustration, and difficult decisions. But if you know why you are doing it and that it has meaning, satisfaction comes naturally. For me, the greatest satisfaction did not come from awards or rankings, but from moments such as when a woman said to me, “Thank you, your cream really helped me” or when, after 20 years of working together, one of my colleagues said, “I feel that I am growing here”. That kind of reward cannot be bought.

A turning point in your career, company, or business was...?
One of the most pivotal moments was the creation and development of our Centre for Science and Research. From the beginning, I believed that science was the key to the effectiveness of cosmetics, but it was only after opening our own research facility that we were able to conduct advanced studies and implement innovations at a world-class level. Another important step was the inclusion of the Dr Irena Eris brand in the elite French club of luxury brands – Comité Colbert. That was confirmation that a Polish brand can become part of the global premium market and compete with the largest companies. A significant moment was also the decision to develop the SPA Hotels segment. That was when we understood that the Dr Irena Eris brand can offer more than cosmetics – it can create a holistic beauty experience combining skincare, relaxation, and science.

You are listed among the most influential women in Poland. You have created one of the most recognisable brands in the country. What are your dreams today?
I used to dream of having my own laboratory – today, I have it. Then I dreamed of creating a place where women could find peace – and we opened our SPA Hotels: Krynica-Zdrój [for guests over the age of 12 – editor's note], Wzgórza Dylewskie, and Polanica-Zdrój. All three recently obtained the international Green Key certificate - one of the most recognized distinctions in the sector of sustainable tourism. Today, I dream that the company we have built will remain true to its values. That in a world which is changing, becoming increasingly technical, with somewhat shallowing relationships, the Dr Irena Eris brand will continue to be a synonym for genuine beauty, science, and trust.

What would you say to a young person who wants to become a successful individual? What would you say to Irena Eris, 30 years younger?
I would say: “Pursue your dreams, be patient, and do not be afraid to take risks”. When I started, everything seemed to be a huge challenge – difficulties in obtaining raw materials, lack of capital, and no business experience. Today, I know that it was worth consistently following my own path, not looking at others, and not being afraid to make difficult decisions.

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